Asphalt Anchor Installation Guide

Asphalt Anchors are specifically designed for anchoring structures to asphalt using adhesive bonding rather than mechanical pressure.

Anchor Specifications

Model	Duty	Pull Guide Load	Side Guide Load	Drill Depth	Drill Diameter	Drill	Adhesive per Anchor
SP10	Light	900 lb	750 lb	6”	7/8”	SDS-Plus	60 mL
SP12	Medium	2,000 lb	1,500 lb	12”	7/8”	SDS-Plus	120 mL
SP18	Heavy	2,000 lb	1,500 lb	12”	1”*	SDS-Plus	150 mL
SP58	Extra heavy	2,000 lb	1,500 lb	10”	1.5”	SDS-Max	290 mL

* 1” is the minimum for the SP18 and is the bit we sell. A 1-1/8” bit leaves a little more clearance around the anchor, which some installers prefer.

Dimensions, bolt sizes, and kit contents are listed on each product page. To work out how much adhesive a job needs, use the adhesive calculator.

Guide loads are for short-duration forces on anchors installed per these instructions in 3” asphalt. They are guidance based on our testing, not certified ratings. The SP12, SP18, and SP58 share the same guide loads because the asphalt sets the limit; larger anchors hold up better to impacts, repeated loads, and sideways forces. See Understanding Anchor Strength and Guide Loads.

Spacing: Space anchors at least 5” center to center. This applies to every model, including the SP58. Closely spaced anchors pull on the same surrounding asphalt, so a tight group may resist less combined pull than the same anchors spread farther apart. Contact us about heavily loaded groups. To get closely spaced holes to line up, see Aligning Anchor Holes.

Edge distance: Install every anchor at least 9” from the edge of the asphalt. See Edge Installation.

Asphalt thickness: Guide loads reference 3” asphalt. We discourage using our anchors in asphalt thinner than 3”. See Asphalt Thickness.

Material: Zinc plated and stainless steel anchors have the same guide loads. Choose based on corrosion exposure. See Zinc Plated vs Stainless Steel Anchors.

Installation Overview

1. Mark - Punch each hole location through a spacing template
2. Drill - Drill the hole to the specified depth and diameter
3. Clean - Brush the hole with a hole cleaning brush on a drill, blow it out, and repeat
4. Pour - Fill the hole roughly 2/3 full with adhesive (EPX2 or EPX3)
5. Insert - Push the anchor in with a slow up-and-down motion until flush, using a mallet if needed
6. Top up - Make sure adhesive reaches the surface around the anchor head
7. Clean up - Remove excess adhesive immediately

Required Supplies

• Hole alignment: Spacing template and a center punch or concrete chisel. See Aligning Anchor Holes.
• Drilling: SDS-Plus rotary hammer (SDS-Max for the SP58) and a masonry bit of the correct diameter. For a corded drill, use a power source rated for more than 2,000 watts if possible; small generators, vehicle outlets, and power banks can make drilling much slower. See Power Supply. See Find Installation Accessories Locally for bit specifications.
• Cleaning: Hole cleaning brush BRH, a drill with a locking extension, and compressed air or a blower. See Clean the Hole.
• Adhesive: EPX2 (cement) or EPX3 (acrylic resin). EPX3 needs a 40:1 high-thrust caulk gun.
• Installation: Mallet
• Safety: Eye protection, hearing protection, and a dust mask if drilling raises dust. See Safety.
• Extra material: Have about 20% more adhesive and supplies on site than you expect to need. Pavement conditions vary.

For planning labor and tools, see How Long Does Asphalt Anchor Installation Take?

Adhesive Selection

For help choosing, see EPX2 vs EPX3 Adhesive.

EPX2 - Expanding Cement

• Packaging: 2.5 lb tubs, 12 oz bags (6-pack), or 10 lb tubs
• Temperature: Do not install below 40°F; use the cold-weather procedure below 50°F
• Work time: Less than 10 minutes at 75°F
• Cure time: Sets in about 15 minutes. Ready to load after about 2 hours at 75°F. Allow longer in cold weather.
• Cost: Most economical option

EPX2 is a rapid-setting anchoring cement, similar to fence post cement. Like any cement, it keeps gaining strength for days. Because the asphalt, not the cement, limits how much the anchor can hold, the anchor needs only about 20% of the cement’s full strength. EPX2 reaches that strength well before it is fully cured, which is why you can load the anchor after about 2 hours.

EPX3 - Acrylic Resin Cartridge

• Packaging: Cartridge for a 40:1 high-thrust caulk gun
• Temperature: Can be installed in pavement and air down to 14°F, as long as the cartridge itself is warmed to 70°F before use
• Work time: 4-6 minutes at 68-86°F
• Cure time: Faster than EPX2. Ready to load in about 10 minutes in hot weather, and about 1 hour in cold weather.
• Advantage: Works in wet holes and cold weather, no mixing required

Critical Installation Steps

Drilling

• Before drilling, mark every hole with a template and center punch so the bit doesn’t skip in the first 1/2”. See Aligning Anchor Holes with a Template and Punch.
• Use only SDS-Plus or SDS-Max rotary hammers - standard chucks will fail
• Don’t apply excessive force; this prevents jamming
• Clean drill bit flutes after each hole
• If holes fill with water, use EPX3 instead of EPX2

Hole Cleaning

Clean every hole with a hole cleaning brush BRH on a drill. Do not clean by hand.

1. Brush the full depth of the hole, with the drill running forward at low speed while you move the brush up and down
2. Blow the hole out with compressed air or a blower
3. Brush the hole again
4. Blow it out again

This step is critical for bond strength - do not skip or rush. See Clean the Hole Before Installing Asphalt Anchors for the full procedure, brush sizing, and a video.

EPX2 Mixing

Mix enough for at least 4 anchors at a time; smaller batches are hard to measure. Use the adhesive calculator to work out how much you need.

Mixing technique:

1. Pour water into container first
2. Slowly add powder while stirring continuously
3. Target consistency: syrup-like (not too thin, not lumpy)
4. Add more water 1 tablespoon at a time if needed

EPX3 Application

1. Attach mixing nozzle to cartridge
2. Pump full nozzle length and discard until uniform gray mix emerges
3. Insert nozzle deep into hole
4. Slowly retract while filling to eliminate air pockets

Anchor Insertion

1. Push anchor with slow up/down motion to coat entire length
2. When anchor head is 2” from surface, check adhesive level and top up if needed
3. Push anchor flush with surface (use mallet if needed)
4. Success indicator: Adhesive squeezed out around anchor head
5. Immediately clean excess adhesive with water or scrape away

Attaching Objects

1. Let the adhesive cure before loading. See the cure times under Adhesive Selection.
2. Remove bolt and washer
3. Ensure mounting surface is flat and contacts anchor head
4. Tighten the bolt snug with a hand wrench - never use an impact wrench
5. Thread the bolt in at least one bolt diameter: 3/8” for the SP10 and SP12, 7/16” for the SP18, and 5/8” for the SP58. That is the standard minimum for a steel bolt in a steel internal thread. More engagement is fine as long as the bolt does not bottom out in the anchor.

If you supply your own bolts, use anti-seize on the threads; see Bolts, washers, and anti-seize. If you remove an attached object for the season or between uses, see Protecting Anchor Threads.

Loading Guidelines

How long a force acts matters as much as how large it is. Asphalt resists a brief pull far better than a steady one, because it slowly flows under constant stress.

• Short-duration load (about a minute or less): Use no more than the pull guide load.
• Continuous load (hours to months): Limit to 20% of the pull guide load: 180 lb for the SP10 and 400 lb for the SP12, SP18, and SP58. Examples include a strap or guy line under constant tension, or a structure that leans on its anchors.

The continuous-load limit is a guideline from our experience, not a tested or guaranteed value. Treat any force that lasts longer than about a minute, including sustained wind, as continuous.

Hot pavement reduces how much a cured anchor can hold. The guide loads already allow for pavement up to 120°F, the hottest we have tested. See High Pavement Temperature and Anchor Capacity. For critical applications or continuous tension, contact us.

Common Errors to Avoid

• Drilling without punching hole locations first (the bit wanders and multi-anchor patterns won’t line up)
• Insufficient hole cleaning, or brushing by hand instead of with a brush on a drill (causes weak bond)
• Not using sufficient adhesive - there must be squeeze out with anchor fully inserted
• Over-tightening bolts or using an impact wrench
• Mounting anchor on top of anything other than the asphalt

Anchor Removal

Before the adhesive sets (about the first 15 minutes for EPX2, or within the work time for EPX3):

1. Over-tighten bolt with wrench to break adhesive bond
2. Rotate anchor counterclockwise to thread out
3. If needed, use flat screwdrivers or nail puller under anchor head

After adhesive cures:

• Over-tightening may break anchor head off body
• Drill out remaining body with metal drill bit

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Safety

• Wear eye protection and hearing protection when drilling. Wear a dust mask if drilling or mixing raises dust.
• EPX2 is caustic before curing - it can burn eyes and skin
• Keep aluminum away from cured EPX2 (not an issue with EPX3)
• Do not use EPX2 with Dacromet or aluminum-containing coatings

Safety data sheets (SDS) for each adhesive are on its product page: EPX2, EPX3.